Lama Wangdu

Gelung Wangdu Monastery in Boudanath was located in a side street of Boudha Main Road, opposite the wall surrounding the garden of the Hyatt Hotel. Its official name was Pal Gyi Langkor Jangsem Kunga Ling, but it was generally known as Lama Wangdu Gompa. Gompa is Tibetan for monastery. It was founded in 2000 and abandoned in about 2016.

During my 2012 summer school course in colloquial Tibetan I used to go there regularly. My landlord Sonam Dorjee Choepa was a regular and he introduced me.

Sonam is an adherent of the Nyingma school of Tibetan Buddhism. Nyingma is the oldest school and dates from the eighth or ninth century. Nying is Tibetan for "old". Lama Wangdu Gompa, a nyingma monastery, was a few hundred meters down the road from where he lived, and Sonam used to attend the 6:30 pm chod (pronounced "chö") meditation.

I went to chod with him regularly. I could follow the order of the meditation quite easily, as it was noted down in a handy booklet with Tibetan text and English translations, that I was allowed to copy in the nearby copyshop. But mostly I didn't meditate. I would bring a list of Tibetan words to memorise for next day's class at summer school. Nobody cared from which paper I'd recite. Besides, the younger monks apparently considered the evening chod as routine and an occasion for tomfoolery. Allright, they would recite the words from their books, but they would also throw doughballs at each other.

Young monks playing damaru in the main hall -- 2012

During particular parts of chod recitation, bells and a damaru drum are used. A damaru is a double-sided hourglass-shaped drum with two balls on ropes that are tied to the center. When the drum is turned back and forth, centrifugal force makes the balls move horizontally from one drumside to the other, causing drum beats. The young monks thought it a sport to push each other into their neighbour's centrifugal balls' orbit. Auch.

Chod is a form of tantric meditation, in which the practitioner visualises his body to be stripped layer by layer and devoured by spirits, after which the body is built up in layers again. When the cycle is complete, peace has been made with the spirits. The visualizations are accompanied by recitation, prayer, and ritual percussion instruments.

Sonam Dorjee Choepa meditates not only in the monastery, but also in his prayer room at home or at a burial site. He does so preferably in the evening or at night, because then there's no distraction and the spirits are stronger. "Spirits are present at the sites where bodies are buried. There the  force is strongest." Sonam tells that often mosquitoes are present at burial sites. I ask him if that doesn't bother his meditation. "No", he says, "that helps with the visualisations."

Lama Wangdu giving audience -- 2012

I returned to Boudanath in the summer of 2018. High on my to do list was visiting the Lama Wangdu Gompa again to see if the monks that I befriended were still living there. And I was curious to attend another of Lama Wangdu's audiences and be blessed. At a 2012 audience oil was sprinkled on my head and I received a good luck charm that I was supposed to keep in my wallet, so as to always have money in it. It's still in my wallet and the charm apparently is working. Lama Wangdu also had the reputation of being a strong spiritual healer and teacher.

Closed doors to Lama Wangdu Gompa -- 2018

But when I went there in early July 2018 the monastery doors were closed, and peeking through the slit between the doors, I could not see any activity. I wondered what was going on. Later that day I met Sonam Dorjee Choepa, and he told me what had happened. Lama Wangdu had the habit of spending part of each year in Portland, Oregon, USA, teaching and leading retreats, as can be read on his website (https://lamawangdu.org). But in 2016 he left for good on very short notice. Apparently a note was posted on the monastery door that Lama Wangdu was moving to Canada for permanent meditation. He sold the monastery and took the money with him. The regular chod practitioners of the monastery considered it a shame, they thought he should have donated the money to the poor or to charity.

Lama Wangdu's website looks like no new additions have been made since 2016.

Sonam Dorjee Choepa found a new guru, who lives in a cave in the mountains and who has no possessions. He still goes to graveyards to do his chod and I accompanied him one evening, as of old. He recited, chanted, danced, and I got stung by mosquitoes. The crows sang accompaniment.

Tingri song and dance -- 2018

The Lama Wangdu Gompa opened one day late July 2018 while I was still in Boudanath. Tibetans originating from Tingri area in Tibet had rented it for their yearly reunion and celebration with puja inside the main hall of the monastery in the morning, and Tingri dance and song in the yard the afternoon. I was happy to see that the main hall was unchanged from my memory of 2012. I hope some other school of Tibetan-Buddhism will eventually acquire the monastery.